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Cut
Of all the 4 C's, cut is the one most directly influenced by man. The other three are dictated by nature. Diamonds are cut into a number of shapes, depending on the nature of the rough stone. The cut or make of a diamond will dramatically influence its fire and sparkle, for it is the cutter's skill that releases its beauty.
Many people confuse cut with the shape of a diamond. The shape is largely a matter of personal preference and is only limited by the skill and imagination of the craftsman. Below are the six most popular shapes for diamonds of a carat or more.
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It is the cut that enables a diamond to make the best use of light. When a diamond is cut to proper proportions, light is refracted from one facet to another and then dispersed through the top or bottom of the stone. If the cut of the diamond is too deep, some light escapes through the opposite side of the pavilion. If the cut is too shallow, light escapes through the pavilion before it can be refracted.
1. Well Cut - When a diamond is cut to proper proportions, light is reflected from one facet to another and then dispersed through the top of the diamond. There are 3 subcategories of a well cut diamond:
- Ideal: This range is very strict and combines the best in brilliance and fire. This is the "best of the best."
- Excellent: This range is also of great beauty yet slightly more flexible regarding percentages. Most professional jewelers prefer this range than ideal since there is little difference separating this class from the best of the best, thus saving the consumer money.
- Very Good: This range is balanced between precise proportions and price considerations. This is probably regarded by most to be the best overall value in beauty and price.
2. Deep Cut - When the diamond is cut too deep, some of the light escapes through the opposite side of the pavilion, thus cutting out a lot of brilliance and fire of a diamond.
3. Shallow Cut: when the diamond is cut too shallow, light escapes through the pavilion before it can be reflected.
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Often under-emphasized, this category is the most important, as it determines brilliance and sparkle.
Many times a "bargain" priced diamond is a poorly cut crystal that produces unsatisfactory brilliance. A well-cut diamond is better able to handle light, creating more scintillation and sparkle.
The cut, or proportions, of a diamond is measured in percentages relative to the diameter of its girdle. The girdle diameter of each diamond is always considered 100%.
EXAMPLE: The girdle of a diamond measures 10mm (100%). The table measures 5.6mm. The total depth measurement is 6.1mm. The diamond would be described as having a table of 56% and a depth of 61%. The table and depth percentages are the key to determining good proportions.
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